Soft spots on the deck of a wood windsurf board

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firstonlastoff
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Soft spots on the deck of a wood windsurf board

Post by firstonlastoff »

I've been looking for a way to extend the life of a board that has a soft spot on the deck from heel slams over the years (or possibly an overzealous cranking of the roof-rack strap). The size of the region is about the size of my palm located just in front of the rear foot-pads. Not sure how much water has gotten in, if any as the board is still light. Suggestions, or links for ways to extend the life of the board welcomed. Not looking to rebuild the thing, just get a season or two more out of it. I was thinking of sanding the entire area, slapping a coat of epoxy on it, and then sealing it with a new food pad and simply planting my foot more forward when I gibe. Anyone know where foot pads can be purchased, presumably most stores in the Gorge would have them but I haven't found any in their online catalogs. Yes I know there are likely way better ways to refurbish the board to near new condition, but the operative concept here is I said 'extend the life of the board' a bit.
Edit: 2004 Starboard Sonic 110 L.
Last edited by firstonlastoff on Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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mortontoemike
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Post by mortontoemike »

George. You didn't post what the board was but most people who have had one will know. My Starboard Wood Carve 121 developed the same problem (mushiness between the foot straps). It was fixed professionally (by Airtime) but a year or two later the deck got soft beside the right front foot strap, where you put your heel. I drilled tiny holes in the deck and, after drying, injected epoxy with a syringe which solved the problem but is probably as unprofessional as it gets! However, that was 4 years ago and it's still being sailed.
I wish my TOW was longer!
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KUS
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Post by KUS »

thought I had posted a repair I usually do with these....starboard is famous for this and some of the older Goya's where heavier riders are concerned. Eastman actually got me onto Gorilla glue as opposed to regular foam, much better but: push and mark all deflection areas with pencil, later you cannot do this!! Drill/cut 1/2-3/4 inch hole (or two or even more in the area well apart) thru the deck and destroy the soft foam in that area with a coathanger or similar item, not going full depth as possible, don't go nuts here but a 1" deep void is ok, and suck it out chunks with a vacuum....keep intact foam. Hope that footstrap inserts are not affected but even that should be okay with the Gorilla stuff. Fill part (40%?) of void with Gorilla glue after spray a light!! misting of water inside so foam will even more adhere. Let glue come out of hole(s) and keep scraping excess off so it can "vent" and won't blow up the board....Gorilla glue won't expand as much and unlike polyurethane foam and actually explode your board if not careful. Also it sets up much, much denser. Once this is done, shave the deck level, slap a layer of epoxy and woven mesh over top and on the penciled area (up to near the top of the rail curve on both sides if close enough), then build up with a shorter layer, then if you want yet another shorter layer so thickness is highest in middle and transfers weight/strength to the rails. Sand, fill to reasonably flat, paint, then apply an oval or whatever shape of padding. Get the self adhesive type ( PADZ factory in Hood River, they even throw out remnants that are big enough, found as much as 3/4 square foot of material in their waste bins, just ask, or pay your ten dollars) so you can peel off again and have no glue mess, clean the area with windex before application to remove any waxes, etc. and help the adherence. :idea:

or review : http://www.boardlady.com/

btw rule #1: once you notice movement in the deck STOP sailing it :!: :!: it makes it much worse to repair, maybe beyond point of no return if you leave it....and once water is in....it stays in
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firstonlastoff
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Post by firstonlastoff »

thanks gentlemen,
- weighed the board last night, no water has been taken in as it is still bang on the manufacturer's weight specification.
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