The science of big waves

General discussions about the weather, incoming storms and swell, complaining, why is it always so windy at night etc.

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JL
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The science of big waves

Post by JL »

Thermals are good.
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KUS
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Post by KUS »

gonna start a thread for every web article, JL? :lol: Come to CB tomorrow, you'll be too tired to read afterward 8)
Wish less, sail more!!
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JL
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Post by JL »

Busted !!!
Thermals are good.
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thankgodiatepastafobreaky
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Post by thankgodiatepastafobreaky »

Thanks - interesting info - BWDave used to have a little animation of the water molecules in a wave going in a little circle as the wave moves through.
curses - foiled again!
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colin
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Post by colin »

Mavericks on Monday.
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kite+waves=!
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Post by bwd »

thankgodiatepastafobreaky wrote:Thanks - interesting info - BWDave used to have a little animation of the water molecules in a wave going in a little circle as the wave moves through.
"Water waves are an example of waves that involve a combination of both longitudinal and transverse motions. As a wave travels through the water, the particles travel in clockwise circles. The radius of the circles decreases as the depth into the water increases. The movie below shows a water wave travelling from left to right in a region where the depth of the water is greater than the wavelength of the waves. I have identified two particles in blue to show that each particle indeed travels in a clockwise circle as the wave passes."

Image

from http://www.kettering.edu/~drussell/Demo ... otion.html
scroll down to the Water Waves section
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colin
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Post by colin »

As a wave travels through the water, the particles travel in clockwise
circles.
Would that not depend on which side you are viewing the wave from? If the waves were traveling right to left the particles would be going in a CCW direction would they not?
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Post by JL »

Thermals are good.
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downwind dave
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Post by downwind dave »

awesome 3 year bump!
Image
the wave particle model is still sloshing around! :lol:
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