Deck Delam. Rebuild http://1drv.ms/1Mv5bNM
Deck Delam. Rebuild http://1drv.ms/1Mv5bNM
Pictures Here http://1drv.ms/1Mv5bNM
This board had a major deck delam. between the divinycell and the eps.
My theory is that it was caused by a manufacturing defect allowing copious amounts of water to enter the board in fairly large amounts. (may have been just hard sailing, but I like my theory
). Once left in the hot sun with all the water in there it caused major expansion causing the deck to delam.
The manufacturing defect is shown on the first few pictures. The thin wood laminate on the deck was run right over a large unfilled gap just in front of the front foot strap (first pictures).
There were voids in between each footstrap insert as well. The footstrap inserts are held together by a flimsy plastic bracket to make installation fast and easy for them (also pictured). This made a direct conduit, tunnels lets say, for water into the board.
The board weighed in at 22 Lbs when I got it. I tried to dry it out by conventional means but the eps just seemed to want to hold on to the water, even with the deck fully removed. To get over the water problem I mined out the eps until there was no trace of water, just bone dry eps, and replaces it with medium density pour foam.
Finish board came in at 16lbs, which is a couple of lbs over spec, but this is my high wind board so I'm quite happy with the weight as it is.
The divinycell that I used is at least double the thickness of the divinycell jP used under the wood so I didn't bother with the wood.. plus finding a suitable veneer may have been another issue (australian pine).
Board sails well. Material were $200 to $250 plus labour if you were not to do it your self. I would only do it again if the board were free, which this one was, or a near new board that was still worth some money after the repair. ie you can buy a decent 2008 windsurf board for $350 to $450
This board had a major deck delam. between the divinycell and the eps.
My theory is that it was caused by a manufacturing defect allowing copious amounts of water to enter the board in fairly large amounts. (may have been just hard sailing, but I like my theory
). Once left in the hot sun with all the water in there it caused major expansion causing the deck to delam.The manufacturing defect is shown on the first few pictures. The thin wood laminate on the deck was run right over a large unfilled gap just in front of the front foot strap (first pictures).
There were voids in between each footstrap insert as well. The footstrap inserts are held together by a flimsy plastic bracket to make installation fast and easy for them (also pictured). This made a direct conduit, tunnels lets say, for water into the board.
The board weighed in at 22 Lbs when I got it. I tried to dry it out by conventional means but the eps just seemed to want to hold on to the water, even with the deck fully removed. To get over the water problem I mined out the eps until there was no trace of water, just bone dry eps, and replaces it with medium density pour foam.
Finish board came in at 16lbs, which is a couple of lbs over spec, but this is my high wind board so I'm quite happy with the weight as it is.
The divinycell that I used is at least double the thickness of the divinycell jP used under the wood so I didn't bother with the wood.. plus finding a suitable veneer may have been another issue (australian pine).
Board sails well. Material were $200 to $250 plus labour if you were not to do it your self. I would only do it again if the board were free, which this one was, or a near new board that was still worth some money after the repair. ie you can buy a decent 2008 windsurf board for $350 to $450
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downwind dave
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downwind dave wrote:nice work, looks really good. i like how you ditched the unnecessary inserts, very pro.
so is it just me or do you see a disproportionate number of JP boards when you are looking up deck delam and repair?
Well I haven't personally seen them, but most of the deck repairs on websites seem to be JP's as you say
Last edited by DavidM on Thu Mar 12, 2015 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just the cheap 3M dust masks with the wire nose seal. Fortunately next to no sanding required using the plastic perforated peel ply and vacuum. All surplus resin sucked out, fabric sucked down, and all the loose edges sucked down: comes out almost shiny smooth.nanmoo wrote:What have you been wearing for protection while working on the board? I freaked myself out last month when I was sanding carbon and then after reading about what can happen if it gets into your blood stream.
Maybe better upgrade protection
What did it say about getting into the blood stream.
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downwind dave
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here's a somewhat researched article with lots of links to actual MSDS info
http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/03/ ... ear_162828
http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/03/ ... ear_162828
Lots of taper sanding!!! No but joints!!! Also, I do cut it on a taper to start with to reduce the amount of sanding.
Only carbon in the rails of that JP board.
Haven't worked on a full carbon board yet. Only divinycell and divinycell/wood. Good point. Guess your mini sup was carbon.
I suppose the carbon fibres could be similar to asbestos...asbestosis.
Only carbon in the rails of that JP board.
Haven't worked on a full carbon board yet. Only divinycell and divinycell/wood. Good point. Guess your mini sup was carbon.
I suppose the carbon fibres could be similar to asbestos...asbestosis.
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C36
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+1 Nice job DavidM (on the repair and on the thread)downwind dave wrote:nice work, looks really good...
downwind dave wrote:...so is it just me or do you see a disproportionate number of JP boards when you are looking up deck delam and repair?
Back around 2003 I was down in the Gorge and bumped into a friend of mine from Maui who introduced me to a visiting PWA pro. Over dinner the JP sponsored sailor mentioned he buckled three JP's earlier that day at The Wall. I didn't see the carnage first hand but others at the dinner said they had.
